| | Pruning Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Garrya elipticaAzaleas, Rhododendrons, Camellias, evergreen Viburnum, evergreen Berberis, Brachyglottis (Senecio), evergreen Ceanothus - after flowering, Choisya, Cistus - only if necessary; not hard, Daphne (minimal), Garrya eliptica, Gaultheria, Kalmia latifolia, Leptospermum, Mahonia, Olearia, Osmanthus (Early flowering species), Pieris, Skimmia,  | Azalea and Rhododendron Pruning together with Garrya eliptica. For all evergreen shrubs that flower in late winter, spring, or early summer.
Simply dead-head the old flowers - before they are allowed to make seed - by cutting back to first set of buds.
If any shoots spoil the overall shape of the shrub, they can be cut back to a suitable position. This includes suckering growth on Gaultherias etc. All pruning for these to take place after flowering. If the shrub is hopelessly overgrown, then it can be cut back quite hard in April - but with the risk of losing the following year's flowers. |
Azalea mollis showing seed-heads from faded flowers - normally in May/June.
A gently twist or snapping action easily breaks off the deed-head. Take care not to damage the surrounding new shoots.
The new side shoots will now develop into flower buds ready for your next year's display.
| Rhododendrons and Deciduous Azaleas (mollis types) Pruning Azaleas mollis types (deciduous) and Rhododendrons. They are simply 'dead-headed' right after flowering. It can be done with a snapping action of thumb and finger With Rhododendrons, you can simply snap off the old flower head - but make sure that you do not damage the new bud growth. It is important to dead head Rhododendrons to ensure good flowering growth for the following year 
|
Back to A-Z of Pruning | |
|
