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The summer pruning. Simply prune the
current season's growth back 6 or 7 buds from the main stem. This will encourage
more fruiting spur growths to form and also transfer more of the tree's energies
into building up the current fruit
crop.
The winter pruning. In the winter, simply
prune out
any overcrowded fruit spurs, remove any diseased branches and also prune out any
'crossing' branches. Aim also to open up the centre of the tree in stages. Do
NOT over prune in winter - as explained below.
With apple trees,
remember when 'shaping' your tree, that horizontal branches bear more fruit that
vertical branches.
Old, neglected trees are best,
treated by pruning over 3 or 4 years. Otherwise there will be excessive growth
if you prune too hard.
Winter Pruning vs. Summer Pruning
Winter Pruning of Apple Trees
There is a basic difference in the
results of winter pruning and summer pruning of apple
trees. In autumn, the apple tree draws down it's energy
supply from the smaller branches after leaf fall, and
stores it in the main trunk and root system. It is
important to appreciate the significance of this, for it
has implications for the re-growth of new branches,
growths in the spring if winter pruning of apple trees
takes place.
If you cut out large portions of the tree
in the winter months, you will in effect not be
affecting the apple tree's potential for growth the
following year - the energy is stored away from your
pruning cuts, in the main trunk and larger branches.
The following spring, the apple tree's
energy supply - which is geared to what the tree
size was before you pruned - surges into spring growing
mode. There is enough energy in the trunk and root
system to support what was there when it went into
dormancy in the autumn. The fact that a large proportion
of its growth might have been removed in the winter,
means that there is excess energy available, and this
will materialise in new vigorous growths in the early
spring season - usually at the expense of flower and
fruit! Any pruning in the winter season, should
therefore be carried out as late as possible before bud
break in order to avert this vigorous flush of unwanted
growth. Most of these growths will be tall upright
shoot, sprouting out from main branches. These are known
as water shoots and have no use for fruiting, though one
or two of them can be retained for future training if
required. Hard pruning in the winter months will result
in much excess growth - taking away much of the energy
required for flower and fruit production.
Summer Pruning of Apple trees
Summer pruning of apple trees normally
consists of removing water shoots or water sprouts -
much of which can be discontinued if note is taken about
excessive winter pruning of apple trees.
As distinct from winter pruning, summer
pruning of apple trees results in removing an energy
source. The branches are now food or energy producers
for the apple tree. Summer pruning should therefore be
kept to a minimum, in order to ensure a plentiful supply
of food for the tree and it's prime purpose - producing
fruit!
Summer pruning should start when the new
growths are a few inches long, and should be restricted
to removing all of the water shoots, and simple thinning
of the structure where absolutely necessary. Summer
pruning of apple trees should be finished by end of June
- July at latest.
Pruning Cuts
Thinning Cuts. These are simple cuts to thin out
the tree as required by taking out a full shoot - right
back to another side shoot. They do not cause renewed
vigour normally and can be done winter or summer.
Heading back. This is normally just taking
out the end (terminal section of a shoot - small branch)
and induces new growths at the area of the cut. These
new shoots can then be trained into new frameworks
as required.
All pruning cuts should be 'finished' as
neatly as possible to allow for quick healing. Make your
pruning cut as near to the old branch as possible - not
leaving any stubs. There is no need to apply a pruning
compound or paint to apple trees. They do not prevent
the incidence of disease and do not assist in the
healing of the cut.
Pruning Apple trees has a twofold effect.
-
It will retain the apple tree in a
manageable size and shape.
-
If carried out as above, will
increase fruit yields.
Remember, that horizontal or near
horizontal branches or shoots produce the most fruit.
Branches can be arched over in a pleasing
effect, simply by gradually anchoring new branches to the ground, or
simply tying bricks or other weights to the ends of new shoot. The
latter makes for a good conversation topic!
Pruning apple trees is simple. Just
remember and put into effect the advice given above.
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