| | Gardenseeker.com Q&A Miscellaneous Questions Misc questions - click on the question that you want answered Q What is the difference between an annual and a perennial?
Q Are herbaceous plants herbs?
Q The left side of my garden is in permanent shade. Can you suggest some pretty plants?
Q When and how can I take fuchsia cuttings?
Q Are some garden plants poisonous?
Q How can I stop my patio pots and hanging baskets from drying out?
Q How can I clean my patio and concrete areas without using chemicals?
Q Can you name some flowering plants that attract butterflies and other insects?
Q Each year I try to grow plants from seed in my small greenhouse, but most of them simply fall over and rot away.
Q When should I prune shrubs? | Q What is the difference between an annual and a perennial? A This often causes confusion. An annual plant is one that is normally grown from seed; it grows into a plant; flowers and then dies - all in the same year. That is then it! Dead! Typical examples are the French and African bedding marigolds, nemesia, and white alyssum. Perennials on the other hand, live for several - or many - years. Penstemons, Rudbekia, and Phlox are typical examples. Confusion starts here...There are annual and perennial varieties of Rudbeckia and Phlox - and of many other plants. Sometimes, some plants are grown as bedding annuals when they are in fact perennials - Pansies (Violas) for example. Even more confusing, is the fact that some plants are treated as annuals, when they are in fact tender perennials i.e Buzy Lizzies. This latter group will grow for two or three years if they are kept frost-free in the winter. I bet you wish that you had never asked?
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| Q Are herbaceous plants herbs ? A No; but some herbs are herbaceous plants!! Herbaceous plants are those which die down to ground level each winter, and then shoot into life in the spring. So, for example, the herb ‘Mint’ is a herbaceous plant (because it dies down to ground level in the winter) whereas the herb ‘Rosemary’ is not; because it does not die down to ground level. Many perennials are ‘herbaceous’ perennials - for instance, the Phlox and aster (Michaelmas daisy) families. These are the plants normally associated with traditional ‘herbaceous borders’.
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| Q The left side of my garden is in permanent shade. Can you suggest some pretty plants? A. This is not so much of a problem as it might seem. Very often, plants do not grow in this situation because of the actual cause the ‘permanent’ shade i.e. an overhanging tree which (a) prevents the rain getting at the area in question and (b) uses up any soil moisture that is available. So, assuming that you can keep the area moist, then you can try some of the following.... For summer bedding plants, you cannot beat the ordinary busy lizzy (Impatiens) for shaded areas - and they don’t come much prettier than that. Where I live, there is a mature Cedar tree - under which is ‘permanent shade’- but lightened up with a lovely selection of Helleborus orientalis. The flowers start from February into March - just when you need a bit of colour, after a long winter. For dry shaded areas you can also try some of the Epimediums - especially Epimedium perraldianum and also some of the Lamiums , (with these you get the benefit of pretty flowers and also pretty leaves). Pulmonarias are also suitable for a good flower show in the spring - followed by spectacular foliage on some varieties. Liriope muscari and the Bergenias will also do well. For damp shade areas, The King Cup (Calatha palustris) makes a good show in the early spring - so are some of the primulas such as the new ‘Wanda’ types. Hostas of course - but do watch out for slugs. Monardas (Bergamots) are also worthy of a place. If it is not too damp, then the Foam Flower (Tiarella cordifolia) is also a must. This will also do quite well in a dry situation. For something quite spectacular in early spring, treat yourself to one of the many Camellias .
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| Q When and how can I take fuchsia cuttings? A If you have a heated green house - or a vacant window sill - cuttings can be taken from March/April right through until September/October. The early cuttings are made available by forcing the dormant potted plant into growth from February/March. Cut the plant back quite hard in February, provide heat, and spray with water a few times each day. (Do not over-water the plant.) When the new shoots have produced 3-4 pairs of leaves, take the cutting with a razor blade; (careful). Make the cut immediately below a leaf joint. It will need to have 2-3 pairs of leaves on it; but make sure that you leave 1 pair of leaves on the plant stem to ensure more growth, (for more cuttings if required). Use a little hormone powder (Bio Strike) and just dip the end of the cutting into it. Gently tap off the surplus making sure that you do not bruise the cutting - it will be soft. Then place 3 or 4 cuttings around the edge of a 10cm pot filled with cuttings or multi purpose compost . Water them in with a fine rose on the can, and cover the pot with a clear plastic bag and secure round the pot with an elastic band to make it air tight. Place on a windowsill or on a bench in a heated greenhouse. Shade from strong sun. The cuttings should be rooted in about 2 weeks. As an alternative you can use a heated propagator putting the cutting direct into the soil bed of the propagator. Once rooted, let the air in little by little over the course of 4-5 days, then separate gently and pot up singly into 10cm pots at first, then larger pots as they grow. The same method can be used with larger cuttings as the year progresses. From May/June the cuttings will need to have 4 pairs of leaves, trimming off the bottom pair. At this time of year also, you will have to make sure that the cutting does not become too hot, or get scorched by the sun. If using the pot and bag method, then use a white plastic bag - rather than a clear one. If you take the cuttings late in the year - say October - you will find that your young potted plants will probably die down in the winter. (They must be kept frost free). Don’t worry, they will sprout from the base in the spring. With fuchsia cuttings, do not over-water, do not overfeed (use Osmocote for a slow controlled release of nutrient) and especially if growing indoors, make sure that they get enough light not to get too ‘leggy’. Once growing, pinch out the tip after four pairs of leaves - this will get make the plant send out side-shoots. You should then pinch these back to 3 pairs of leaves and you will end up with a full bushy plant. If you want to try your hand at a ‘standard’, don’t pinch the main shoot out, but train it up a cane, pinching all the side shoots out - but not the leaves on the main stem. You will need to grow it in an 25cm pot.
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| Q Are some garden plants poisonous? A Deadly poisonous - some of them. The seeds of Laburnum are amongst the worst. A number of perennials are also poisonous to varying degrees i.e.. Aconitum, Aquilegia, Caltha, Helleborus etc...In fact, if I gave a full list of all the plants which are potentially poisonous, you probably would not have a garden - nor eat vegetables! These days, sellers of plants have to clearly label those plants which are a health risk. Back to Q&A main page Back to Miscellaneous Questions |
| Q How can I stop my patio pots and hanging baskets from drying out? A I assume that you are watering them regularly!!?? . Don’t forget that a full pot placed on a patio in full sun, can dry out in 4-5 hours. It is a good idea to place pot saucers under your pots to help provide a water reservoir, and you can even place a 15 cm saucer in the bottom of your hanging basket - above the moss or other liner, and before the soil. You can also use moisture-retaining (hygroscopic) gel. It really works. Clustering groups of pots together helps to cut down on the moisture loss as well.
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Q Can you name any flowering plants that attract butterflies and other insects? If you have the space, then one of the Buddleia davidii types will be just right (Black Knight, Empire Blue, Peace, Royal Red, Harlequin are all good ones). Hebes, Pyracanthas for the flowers in early summer, and then the berries in autumn/winter. Cotoneasters will also fit the bill. The Spiraea group, Lavenders, Perovskia, Syringa, Viburnum tinus and V. opulus and the summer heathers. Some perennials which will attract wildlife, include Achillea, Sedum spectabilis (a must) Scabiosa, Asters (Michaelmas daisies). The perfect annual for this, Phacelia Back to Q&A main page Back to Miscellaneous Questions
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| Q Each year I try to grow plants from seed in my small greenhouse, but most of them simply fall over and rot away. A. This is probably caused by the fungal disease ‘Damping Off’. The seeds germinate successfully - then die off in patches. Fortunately, this can be prevented to a large degree by following some simple guidelines. Use only new, sterilised compost. The soil-less types will do fine. Do not use the bag of soil that has been left over from last year for this job. Sow the seed thinly, and spread evenly on the compost in the seedtray or pot. I don’t normally cover my seed with soil; I use Vermiculite. With the smaller seeds, I wait until the seeds have started to germinate before sprinkling a fine layer of Vermiculite over then in order to ‘anchor’ them to the soil. Make sure that the temperature of the compost is not too high, if using a heater below the greenhouse bench. Cover the tray with a sheet of glass or clear plastic to keep the humidity high. Once the seeds have geminated, you should reduce the temperature - gently - to that recommended on the seed packet. Many annuals prefer surprisingly cool ‘growing-on’ temperatures; petunias and busy lizzies for instance. Gradually take off the glass sheet - over the space of a week or so - and keep growing in good daylight or the small plants will become leggy. This is also the case if you sow them too closely together. After the middle of March keep an eye on the weather to make sure that your young plants do not get scorched on hot sunny days (There’s optimism for you). When the sun gets hotter, start to ‘shade’ the greenhouse - either with Netlon Greenhouse shading net or Coolglass spray. Use Cheshunt Compound when sowing and as directed on the packet and this will also help prevent Damping Off. There we are, you should now have plenty of young healthy plants to herald the start of summer.
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| Q When should I prune shrubs? A Shrubs generally fall into one of two categories. Category ‘A’ consists of shrubs that produce flowers on the tips of the current year’s growth. That is to say, that they flower on new shoots. The best example is the bush rose group i.e. the floribundas and the hybrid teas. The flowers are on the tips of the new shoots; they don’t flower further down the stem on the twigs left over from last year. In the same group are Buddlejas, Hypericums, Spiraea x bumalda ‘Anthony Waterer’, ‘Goldflame’, ‘Little Princess’ (The early summer flowering ones - not the spring flowering ones such as Spiraea Arguta, S. Vanhoutei etc). Fuchsias also flower on new growth, as do Hebes such as H. Midsummer Glory, H. Autumn Glory, H. Great Orme etc. Hydrangea paniculata Grandiflora also falls into this category. All of these can/should be pruned back quite hard in the spring. This will encourage new shoot growth, which in turn produces more flowers. Generally, the other category, produces flowers on shoots made the previous year. Obviously, if you prune these in the spring, then you are cutting off the previous season’s growth shoots - and hence the flower buds. This category usually flowers in the spring and early summer and include shrubs such as Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Camellias, Spiraea arguta, S Vanhoutei, S. Snowmound Forsythias, Kerrias, Weigellas, Magnolias, etc. As a general rule, this group should be pruned immediately after they have finished flowering. This will give the shrub time to produce shoots later in the year - ready to carry the flower-buds into the next year... The timing is important. For instance, if you leave the pruning of a Rhododendron until June or July, then it will produce new growth the same year, but not have the time to produce flower buds for the next spring. These are just a few examples. Study your shrubs. See whereabouts they flower from on the stem and work backwards. For instance, if you take a careful look at the Viburnum tinus group - which bud up in late autumn and then flower in winter. You will see that the flower buds are on the current year’s growth. So a trim back in April - at latest - will provide plenty of new growth, and allow time for the flower buds to develop. On the other hand, if you look carefully at Viburnum bodnantense, you will find that the flowers do not come from the current year’s growth - even though it flowers at roughly the same time as V. tinus. One should also mention pruning for winter stem effect. This will include the Cornus stolonifera and C. alba types and also Rubus cockburnianus R. Thibeticus, etc. This group should be cut back to within a few inches of ground level during March/April. This will give masses of new ‘canes’ which are at their best during the winter months. The truth of the matter is, that most shrubs do not require a routine pruning session - provided they are planted with plenty of room to grow in the first place! Visit our Shrub pruning A-Z Guide Back to Miscellaneous Questions Back to Q&A main page
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